Checking In | Relais La Corte Dei Papi, Tuscany
- Vanessa Gordon
- 5 days ago
- 5 min read
Tucked into the rolling countryside just outside Cortona, Relais La Corte Dei Papi is a restored 18th-century manor house that feels like stepping into a quieter, more intimate side of Tuscany. Surrounded by olive trees, gardens, and panoramic countryside views, the property offers a tranquil retreat designed for travelers seeking both relaxation and authentic Tuscan charm.
During my stay, I found Relais La Corte Dei Papi to be the kind of place where time slows down. Whether visiting for a romantic escape, a culinary experience, or simply a peaceful countryside stay, the villa offers an atmosphere that feels both elegant and deeply rooted in the region’s heritage.
The Stay
At Relais La Corte Dei Papi, every room blends historic Tuscan character with modern comfort. Walking into my room, I immediately noticed the terracotta floors and exposed wooden beams—details that reflect the property’s centuries-old history while still feeling warm and welcoming.
Fine linens, antique furnishings, and soft lighting create an atmosphere that feels relaxed yet refined. The rooms are designed to reflect Tuscany’s heritage while still offering modern luxuries that make the stay effortless.
For travelers seeking an even more indulgent experience, the hotel’s Spa Suites offer a private wellness retreat within the room itself. These suites feature Turkish baths, Jacuzzis, and multi-sensory showers, along with aromatherapy, chromotherapy, and music therapy designed to create a deeply restorative environment. Many suites also feature private gardens and sweeping views of the surrounding hills, making them feel like a true sanctuary in the Tuscan countryside.
My Favorite 90 Seconds
My favorite moment during the stay was surprisingly simple: the shower.
In the Spa Suite, the shower becomes less of a routine and more of a ritual. After long days exploring the Tuscan countryside and nearby hill towns, I found myself looking forward to returning to the suite and stepping into the multi-sensory shower. Soft lighting, changing water pressure, and subtle aromatherapy transform the experience into something deeply relaxing rather than purely functional.
I found myself taking two showers each day and making time for the suite’s jacuzzi as well. In the quiet of the villa, with the scent of warm steam and the stillness of the surrounding countryside just beyond the windows, those moments became the most restorative part of the stay.
The Moments That Make It
The chef prepares each dish using fresh local ingredients, celebrating the flavors of Tuscany and the culinary traditions of the surrounding countryside. During my visit, dishes like handmade pappardelle with wild boar ragù, classic pici cacio e pepe, and beautifully grilled bistecca alla Fiorentina reflected the region’s deep culinary heritage—simple preparations that rely on exceptional ingredients and time-honored techniques.
Pasta arrives perfectly al dente, the ragù slow-cooked and deeply flavorful, while the bistecca is grilled in the Tuscan tradition and served simply, allowing the quality of the meat to speak for itself. Fresh bread and local olive oil often begin the meal, setting the tone for a dinner that feels both rustic and refined.
Desserts lean equally local, often ending with traditional cantucci served with Vin Santo, the almond biscuits meant to be dipped into the sweet Tuscan dessert wine. It’s a classic regional pairing and a simple yet perfect finale to a meal that feels deeply rooted in place.
Breakfast the following morning is equally relaxed, with a buffet spread featuring cereals, fresh fruit, local cheeses, charcuterie, vegetables, juices, and coffee beverages. It’s the kind of slow morning that encourages you to linger a little longer before heading out to explore nearby hill towns.
Beyond the dining experience, the villa offers ways to immerse yourself in Tuscan culture. Cooking classes with Chef Giuseppe guide guests through the preparation of traditional regional dishes, while private wine tastings introduce bottles from the property’s cellar, which holds more than 700 labels.
For those who want to venture further, the surrounding countryside offers horseback riding, scenic bike rides through vineyards, or even hot air balloon rides that reveal the rolling hills of Tuscany from above.
Who This Hotel Is Actually For
Relais La Corte Dei Papi is especially well suited for travelers looking for a peaceful countryside retreat rather than a busy city stay.
Couples seeking a romantic Tuscan escape will likely appreciate the intimate setting and beautiful landscape surrounding the property. Food and wine lovers will also enjoy the culinary experiences, wine tastings, and cooking classes that highlight the region’s traditions.
The property is also a popular venue for weddings and private celebrations, thanks to its historic villa setting, lush gardens, and the option to reserve the entire estate for a fully private event.
Practical Stay Notes
Visited: early October
Length of stay: 2 nights
Room: Spa Suite
View: Rolling Tuscan countryside and gardens surrounding the villa
Purpose: leisure stay exploring Cortona and the Tuscan countryside
Nearby Points of Interest
Cortona: Just a short drive from the hotel, this historic Etruscan hill town is known for its charming streets, sweeping views, and cultural landmarks such as Piazza della Repubblica and the city cathedral.
Montepulciano: Famous for its Vino Nobile wine and Renaissance architecture, Montepulciano offers picturesque streets, historic palaces, and wine cellars carved into ancient stone.
Montalcino: A must-visit destination for wine lovers, Montalcino is the birthplace of Brunello di Montalcino and offers panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside.
Pienza: A UNESCO-listed Renaissance town known for its beautifully preserved architecture and world-famous pecorino cheese.
Arezzo: This historic city is rich in art and culture and is home to the famous fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca.
Lake Trasimeno: A scenic lake ideal for a relaxing day trip, offering charming lakeside towns, boat excursions, and sweeping views.
Siena: Known for its medieval streets, Gothic architecture, and the iconic Piazza del Campo, Siena remains one of Tuscany’s most captivating cities.
Florence: About an hour away, Florence offers world-class museums, Renaissance architecture, and iconic landmarks including the Duomo and the Uffizi Gallery.
Umbria’s Hill Towns: Towns such as Assisi, Spello, Gubbio, Spoleto, and Todi are also within reach, offering visitors a glimpse into medieval Italy with historic churches, museums, and charming piazzas.
Chianti Wine Region: The rolling hills of Chianti are famous for vineyards, wine tastings, and scenic countryside drives that showcase some of Tuscany’s most beautiful landscapes.
